Retinoids, retinoids 101, everything you need to know about retinoids, gold-standard of skincare
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If you’re looking for a way to level up your skin care game, you’ve probably heard of retinoids. They’re one of the most effective and versatile ingredients you can use to improve your skin’s health and appearance. They’re considered the “SKINCARE GOLD-STANDARD”. But what exactly are retinoids, and how do they work? And more importantly, how can you use them safely and effectively to achieve your skin goals? Don’t worry, I got you!

I have seen amazing results from using retinoids for the past year and a half. I did a lot of research on retinoids before I decided on my skincare strategy. So, in this article, I’ll share with you everything I know and that you need to know about retinoids, from choosing the right one for your skin, to using it correctly, to measuring and maintaining the results. If you want to see my current retinoid skincare routine, CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE.

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What are retinoids and why are they good for your skin?

Retinoids are a group of compounds derived from vitamin A, which is essential for many functions in your body, including your vision, immune system, and skin. Retinoids work by binding to specific receptors on your skin cells, and influencing their behavior. Depending on the type and strength of the retinoid, they can do different things for your skin, such as:

Speed up cell turnover:

  • Retinoids help your skin shed old, dead cells faster, and replace them with new, healthy ones. This can improve your skin’s texture, tone, and radiance, as well as unclog your pores and prevent acne.

Boost collagen production:

  • Retinoids stimulate your skin to produce more collagen, the protein that gives your skin its structure and elasticity. This can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging, and make your skin look firmer and smoother.

Fade hyperpigmentation:

  • Retinoids inhibit the enzyme that produces melanin. This can help lighten dark spots, freckles, melasma, and other forms of hyperpigmentation, and even out your skin tone.

Soothe inflammation:

  • Retinoids have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help calm your skin and reduce redness, swelling, and irritation. This can be especially helpful for conditions like rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis.

As you can see, retinoids are truly a skin care superstar, as they can address multiple skin concerns at once, and make your skin look younger, clearer, and healthier. But not all retinoids are created equal. There are different types and forms of retinoids available, and they vary in their potency, stability, and side effects. Let’s talk about some of the most common ones.

Types of Retinoids

Retinoids come in different forms, such as creams, gels, lotions, serums, and capsules. They also come in different strengths, from over-the-counter to prescription-only. The strength of a retinoid depends on how many steps it takes to convert it into retinoic acid, which is the active form that your skin is able to use, in other words, better bioavailability. The more steps required for the conversion to retinoic acid, the weaker the retinoid. Here are some of the most popular retinoids, and their pros and cons:

Retinol:

  • Retinol is the most common over-the-counter retinoid, and it takes two steps to convert into retinoic acid. It converts into retinaldehyde before converting into retinoic acid. Retinol is a good option for beginners, as it is gentle and well-tolerated by most people. It can improve your skin’s appearance and texture, but it may take longer for you to see noticeable results. Some examples of products that contain retinol are Natirium Retinol Complex Serum, which has an encapsulated retinol combined with bakuchiol, which is a plant derived retinol alternative (CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE ON RETINOL ALTERNATIVES FOR MORE INFORMATION), and Skinmedica Age Defense Retinol Complex, which has a time-release technology and antioxidants to minimize irritation and enhance efficacy.

Retinyl esters:

  • Retinyl esters are another type of over-the-counter retinoid, and they take three steps to convert into retinoic acid. They convert into retinol and then retinaldehyde before converting into retinoic acid. Retinyl esters are even milder than retinol, and they are suitable for sensitive skin. They can hydrate and brighten your skin, but they may not be very effective for treating acne or wrinkles. Some examples of products that contain retinyl esters are Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, which are daily-use capsules that contain a combination of ceramides and a retinyl ester(retinyl palmitate), and Murad Essential-C Day Moisture Broad Spectrum SPF 30-PA+++, which is a daily moisturizer that contains sunscreen and a retinyl ester(retinyl palmitate).

Retinaldehyde aka Retinal:

  • Retinaldehyde is another type of over-the-counter retinoid, and takes one step to convert into retinoic acid. This makes retinaldehydes more potent than retinols and retinyl esters and are a great option if your skin is ready for an upgrade from retinols. They are considered more effective than retinols and you could see noticeable results quicker than with a retinol. Some examples of products that contain retinaldehyde are Avene RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream, which has a moisturizing and anti-aging formula, and Medik8 Crystal Retinal, which 5 different formulas of retinals with five different strengths, in a glycerin and hyaluronic moisturizing base.

Adapalene:

  • Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that is available over-the-counter or by prescription, depending on the concentration. It is derived from napothic acid which does not need to be converted into retinoic acid in order to become active, and it is more potent and stable than retinol. Adapalene is especially effective for treating acne, due to its ability to reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and prevent breakouts. It can also improve your skin’s texture and tone, but it may not be very effective for treating wrinkles or hyperpigmentation. Some examples of products that contain adapalene are Differin Acne Retinoid Treatment Gel, which has a gel base and a 0.1% concentration of adapalene, and La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.3%, which has a higher concentration and a micronized formula for better absorption.

Retinoic acid:

  • Retinoic acid is the strongest and most effective type of retinoid, and it is only available by prescription. It does not need to be converted into anything, as it is already the active form that your skin can use. Retinoic acid can treat a wide range of skin concerns, such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and psoriasis. It can also reverse some signs of sun damage and aging, and make your skin look younger and healthier. However, retinoic acid can also cause more side effects, such as dryness, peeling, redness, sensitivity, and purging. Some examples of products that contain retinoic acid are Tretinoin, which is the generic name for retinoic acid, and Retin-A, which is a brand name for tretinoin.
Curls On Demand Tips
  • Retinoic acids such as Tretinoin are only available by prescriptions, which means you have to get it through a licensed medical professional or dermatologist. However, you do not have to pay for a costly visit to a doctor/dermatologist to get your prescription. There are online services that connects you with a licensed dermatology professional remotely so you can obtain a prescription for tretinoin. CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE IF YOU WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ONLINE SERVICES AVAILABLE FOR YOUR TRETINOIN SCRIPTS.

Isotretinoin:

  • Isotretinoin is another type of synthetic retinoid, and it is only available by prescription. It is taken orally, and it is usually reserved for severe cases of acne that do not respond to other treatments. Isotretinoin can clear up your skin completely, and prevent future breakouts. However, isotretinoin can also cause serious side effects, such as birth defects, liver damage, depression, and suicidal thoughts. Therefore, isotretinoin should only be used under the close supervision of a dermatologist, and with strict precautions. Some examples of products that contain isotretinoin are Accutane, which is the most well-known brand name for isotretinoin, and Claravis, which is a generic version of isotretinoin. Ask your doctor about isotretinoins are right for you; especially if you have severe acne and you have tried all other forms of treatments.

When choosing a retinoid for your skin, you should consider your skin type, condition, goals, and tolerance. You should also read the labels and ingredients of retinoid products carefully, and look for the following things:

Concentration:

  • The concentration of a retinoid indicates how much of it is in the product, and it is usually expressed as a percentage. The higher the concentration, the stronger the retinoid. However, higher concentration does not always mean better results. Sometimes, a lower concentration can be more effective and less irritating, as it allows your skin to adjust gradually. You should start with the lowest concentration possible, and increase it slowly as your skin tolerates it. For example, if you are using retinol, you can start with 0.1% or 0.2%, and work your way up to 0.5% or 1%.

Formulation:

  • The formulation of a retinoid refers to the base and the delivery system of the product, and it can affect how well the retinoid penetrates your skin, and how stable it is. Generally, retinoids are more effective and stable in oil-based or gel-based formulations, as they can dissolve better and protect the retinoid from light and air. However, oil-based or gel-based formulations can also be more drying and irritating, especially for dry or sensitive skin. In that case, you may prefer a cream-based or lotion-based formulation, as they can provide more hydration and comfort. You should also look for formulations that have time-release or encapsulated technologies, as they can deliver the retinoid slowly and steadily, and reduce the risk of irritation.

Packaging:

  • The packaging of a retinoid product can also affect how well the retinoid performs, and how long it lasts. Retinoids are sensitive to light and air, and they can degrade or oxidize when exposed to them. Therefore, you should look for products that come in opaque, airtight, and pump-style containers, as they can protect the retinoid from external factors, and prevent contamination. I know with the rise of serums, dropper bottles have become more popular; however, they are not the best packaging for retinoids. You should also store your retinoid products in a cool, dark, and dry place, and avoid exposing them to heat or sunlight.

Choosing the right retinoid for your skin is not an easy task, as there are many factors to consider, such as your skin type, condition, goals, and tolerance. You should also consult a dermatologist before using retinoids, especially if you have a medical condition, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or are taking other medications. A dermatologist can help you find the best retinoid for your skin, and prescribe the appropriate strength and dosage. A dermatologist can also monitor your skin’s progress and reaction, and adjust your retinoid accordingly. By choosing the right retinoid for your skin, and using it correctly and safely, you can enjoy the benefits of this amazing ingredient, and achieve your skin goals.

How to use retinoids safely and effectively

Now that you have chosen the right retinoid for your skin, you may be wondering how to use it properly. Retinoids are powerful ingredients, and they can cause some irritation and sensitivity if used incorrectly. Therefore, you should follow some tips and best practices to ensure that you get the most out of your retinoid, without harming your skin. Here are some of them:

Start slowly:

  • One of the most important rules of using retinoids is to start slowly, and gradually increase the frequency and amount of your retinoid. This will allow your skin to adjust to the retinoid, and minimize the risk of irritation. You should start by applying a pea-sized amount of your retinoid once or twice a week, and then increase it to every other night, and eventually to every night, as your skin tolerates it. You should also avoid using additional products that contain retinoids in your routine, such as a retinol moisturizer on top of a retinal serum, as they can increase the potency and irritation of your retinoid.

Apply at night:

  • Another important rule of using retinoids is to apply them at night, before you go to bed. This is because retinoids are photosensitive, which means they can break down and lose their effectiveness when exposed to sunlight. Moreover, retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and increase the risk of sunburn and sun damage. Therefore, you should always use your retinoid at night, and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day, even if it is cloudy or rainy. You should also avoid tanning beds, as they can emit harmful UV rays that can damage your skin and negate the benefits of your retinoid.

Use sunscreen:

  • As mentioned above, using sunscreen is essential when using retinoids, as they can make your skin more vulnerable to the sun. Sunscreen can protect your skin from the harmful effects of UV rays, such as premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer. You should use a sunscreen that offers both UVA and UVB protection, and reapply it every two hours, or more often if you sweat or swim. You should also wear protective clothing, such as hats, sunglasses, and long sleeves, and seek shade whenever possible. Sunscreen can also help prevent your skin from darkening or reddening, which can sometimes happen when using retinoids.

Moisturize:

  • Moisturizing is another key step when using retinoids, as they can dry out your skin and cause flaking and peeling. Moisturizing can help restore your skin’s hydration and barrier function, and reduce the irritation and sensitivity caused by retinoids. You should use a moisturizer that is suitable for your skin type, and that does not contain any ingredients that can conflict with your retinoid, such as acids, alcohols, or fragrances. You should apply your moisturizer after your retinoid, but make sure to wait for at least 15 minutes to let your retinoid absorb fully first. You can also apply your moisturizer before your retinoid, or mix them together, to buffer the strength and irritation of your retinoid. However, this may also reduce the effectiveness of your retinoid, so you should only do this if your skin is very sensitive or dry.

Avoid other harsh or irritating products:

  • When using retinoids, you should be careful about what other products you use on your skin, as some of them can interfere with your retinoid, or worsen the side effects. You should avoid using products that contain other active ingredients, such as acids, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C, or chemical exfoliants, as they can either deactivate your retinoid, or cause excessive dryness, peeling, or inflammation. You should also avoid using products that are too abrasive, such as scrubs, brushes, or exfoliators, as they can damage your skin and cause more irritation. You should stick to gentle and simple products that can support your skin’s health and balance, and that do not contain any ingredients that can trigger allergies, sensitivities, or breakouts.

By following these tips and best practices, you can use retinoids safely and effectively, and enjoy the benefits they can bring to your skin. However, you should also be aware of some potential side effects that retinoids can cause, and how to deal with them.

How to manage the side effects of retinoids

Retinoids are not without drawbacks, and they can cause some unpleasant side effects, especially during the first few weeks or months of use. These side effects are normal and expected, and they usually subside as your skin gets used to the retinoid. However, they can also be uncomfortable and discouraging, and make you want to quit using your retinoid. Therefore, you should know how to recognize and manage these side effects, and when to seek professional help. Here are some of the most common side effects of retinoids, and how to handle them:

Dryness:

  • Dryness is one of the most common side effects of retinoids, as they can reduce the natural oils and moisture in your skin. Dryness can make your skin feel tight, rough, and flaky, and it can also increase the risk of irritation and infection. To prevent and treat dryness, you should moisturize your skin regularly, and use products that can hydrate and nourish your skin, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, and oils. You should also drink plenty of water, and avoid hot showers, alcohol, and caffeine, as they can dehydrate your skin further.

Peeling:

  • Peeling is another common side effect of retinoids, as they can accelerate the shedding of your skin cells. Peeling can make your skin look scaly, uneven, and dull, and it can also cause itching and discomfort. To prevent and treat peeling, you should moisturize your skin well, and use products that can soothe and repair your skin, such as aloe vera, oatmeal, honey, and chamomile. You should also avoid picking or scratching your skin, as this can cause more damage and infection. You can gently remove the loose skin with a soft cloth or cotton pad, but do not rub or scrub your skin too hard, as this can cause more irritation and inflammation.

Redness:

  • Redness is another common side effect of retinoids, as they can increase the blood flow and inflammation in your skin. Redness can make your skin look flushed, angry, and irritated, and it can also cause burning and stinging sensations. To prevent and treat redness, you should use your retinoid sparingly, and start with a low concentration and frequency. You should also avoid sun exposure, heat, and alcohol, as they can worsen the redness and inflammation. You can also apply a cold compress or ice pack to your skin, to reduce the swelling and discomfort.
Curls On Demand Tips
  • Redness and Irritation is a sign of your skin barrier being impaired! If redness and stinging occurs, you should STOP using the retinoid, including all other actives, and go back to a basic routine, until the redness and irritation subsides. CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE ON HOW TO CREATE A BASIC SKINCARE ROUTINE.

Sensitivity:

  • Sensitivity is another common side effect of retinoids, as they can thin your skin and make it more vulnerable to external factors. Sensitivity can make your skin react more easily and severely to things that normally do not bother you, such as sunlight, wind, cold, heat, pollution, or cosmetics. Sensitivity can also cause itching, tingling, or pain in your skin, and it can also increase the risk of allergic reactions and infections. To prevent and treat sensitivity, you should use your retinoid carefully, and avoid using other products that can irritate your skin, such as acids, alcohols, fragrances, or dyes. You should also use products that can protect and strengthen your skin barrier, such as sunscreen, antioxidants, and ceramides. You should also avoid touching, rubbing, or scratching your skin, as this can aggravate the sensitivity and cause more damage.
Curls On Demand Tips
  • Sensitivity is a sign of your skin barrier being impaired! If sensitivity occurs, you should STOP using the retinoid, including all other actives, and go back to a basic routine, which will help repair your skin barrier, until the sensitivity subsides. CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE ON HOW TO CREATE A BASIC SKINCARE ROUTINE.

Purging:

  • Purging is another common side effect of retinoids, and it is also the most misunderstood and feared one. Purging is when your skin breaks out more than usual, as the retinoid brings the underlying impurities and clogged pores to the surface. Purging can make your skin look worse before it gets better, and it can cause acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and cysts. Purging can last for several weeks or months, depending on your skin condition and the type and strength of your retinoid. To prevent and treat purging, you should be patient and consistent with your retinoid, and do not stop using it abruptly, as this can make the purging worse. You should also use products that can help clear and heal your skin, such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and sulfur. FYI: These ingredients can cause additional drying and can become very uncomfortable when used, so use with precaution. You should also avoid popping, squeezing, or picking your skin, as this can cause more inflammation, scarring, and infection.

These are some of the most common side effects of retinoids, and how to manage them. However, not everyone experiences these side effects, and some people may have more or less severe reactions than others. You should monitor your skin closely, and adjust your retinoid accordingly. If your side effects are mild to moderate, you can try to reduce the frequency, amount, or concentration of your retinoid, or switch to a different type or form of retinoid. If your side effects are severe or persistent, you should stop using your retinoid, and consult a dermatologist as soon as possible. A dermatologist can help you find the best retinoid for your skin type and skin concerns.

How to measure and maintain the results of retinoids

Using retinoids can be a rewarding and satisfying experience, as they can transform your skin and make it look better than ever. However, using retinoids also requires patience and perseverance, as they can take some time to show their full effects, and they need to be used consistently and indefinitely to maintain the results. Therefore, you should know how to measure and maintain the results of retinoids, and what to expect in terms of improvement. Here are some tips and advice on how to do that:

Set realistic expectations:

  • Retinoids are not magic, and they cannot fix everything. They can improve your skin’s appearance and condition, but they cannot change your skin’s genetics, structure, or color. They can also not reverse all the signs of aging or sun damage, or prevent future ones. Therefore, you should set realistic expectations for what retinoids can do for your skin, and do not compare your results with others, as everyone’s skin is different and responds differently to retinoids. You should also be aware that retinoids are not a quick fix, and they can take several weeks or months to show noticeable results, depending on your skin type, condition, and the type and strength of your retinoid. You should not give up on your retinoid too soon, or switch to a different one too often, as this can disrupt your skin’s adaptation and progress. You should stick to your retinoid for at least three to six months, before evaluating its effectiveness and deciding whether to continue, change, or stop using it.
Curls On Demand Tips
  • You can attain better results by combining your retinoid routine with regular laser treatments and/or micro-needling treatments. CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE FOR MORE ABOUT LASER TREATMENT OPTIONS and THIS ARTICLE FOR MORE ABOUT MICRO-NEEDLING OPTIONS!

Track and document your progress:

  • Tracking and documenting your progress can help you see how your skin changes and improves over time, and motivate you to keep using your retinoid. You can track and document your progress in different ways, such as taking photos, keeping a journal, or using an app. You should take photos of your skin regularly, preferably once a week, and under the same lighting, angle, and distance. You should also keep a journal of your skin’s condition, and note down any changes, improvements, or side effects that you observe. You can also use an app that can help you monitor and record your skin’s progress, such as Skin Log, Skin Care Routine , or Charm. These apps can also provide you with tips, reminders, and feedback on your skin care regimen.

Be consistent and patient:

  • Being consistent and patient is the key to achieving and maintaining the results of retinoids. You should use your retinoid regularly, and follow the instructions and recommendations of your dermatologist or product label. You should also avoid skipping or missing your retinoid, as this can slow down or reverse your results. You should also be patient, and do not expect to see dramatic changes overnight, or compare your results with others. You should remember that retinoids work gradually and subtly, and they can take some time to show their full effects. You should also remember that retinoids are not a one-time treatment, and they need to be used for the long term to maintain the results. If you stop using your retinoid, your skin may revert to its previous state, or even worse. Therefore, you should use your retinoid as part of your daily skin care routine, and do not stop using it unless advised by your dermatologist.

Celebrate your success:

  • Celebrating your success can help you appreciate and enjoy the results of your retinoid, and boost your confidence and self-esteem. You can celebrate your success in different ways, such as sharing your story and photos with others, treating yourself to a new outfit or accessory, or complimenting yourself on your skin. You can also celebrate your success by inspiring and helping others who are interested in using retinoids, and sharing your tips and advice with them. You can also celebrate your success by thanking your dermatologist, your product, and yourself, for making your skin look better and healthier.

These are some tips and advice on how to measure and maintain the results of retinoids. By following these tips and advice, you can make the most of your retinoid, and enjoy the benefits it can bring to your skin.

Conclusion

Retinoids are one of the best ingredients you can use to improve your skin’s health and appearance. They can address multiple skin concerns, such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and psoriasis, and make your skin look younger, clearer, and healthier. However, retinoids are not without challenges, and they can cause some side effects, such as dryness, peeling, redness, sensitivity, and purging. Therefore, you should know how to use retinoids safely and effectively, and how to manage the side effects.

I hope you found this article helpful and informative, and I encourage you to try retinoids for yourself, and see the difference they can make for your skin. If you have any feedback or questions, please feel free to share them with me. I would love to hear from you! You can check out my current retinoid skincare routine HERE.

Sources/References

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